Hains & Co isn’t just any old bar, it’s an old world den that pays tribute to the passions of Marcus Motteram. He’s the Admiral of this good ship and the nautical theme runs from the bartenders’ uniforms to the light fittings. That attention to detail is also evident behind the bar, where you’ll discover some of the finest booze shipped in from across the seven seas.
The selection is constantly being updated and expanded and they’ve finally run out of room. “I can only stock about 50 gins and 50 rums!” is not a complaint you’ll hear often, but it’s a testament to the care shown at Hains & Co that each one of those bottles has a story behind it. As wonderful as tasting them all sounds, we decided to defer to The Admiral’s expertise and asked him to pour us a few favourites.
KI Spirits Wild Gin
The Admiral freely admits that gin was “my first spirit love,” and this one is hard to beat. Having been in operation for almost ten years, KI Spirits are pioneers of the local craft distilling movement and Motteram quips that John Lark has “more botanicals in his garden than the Botanical Gardens.”
Wild Gin utilises ginger, pink pepper and KI’s “native Juniper”, myoporum insulare, among other ingredients, and the basket still process used means that it has a very subtle flavour. The natural spice of the botanicals is perfectly balanced with the addition of citrus and tonic. Served with Fevertree Mediterranean tonic and thyme, rosemary and dehydrated lime, it’s like an instant hit of summer.
Santa Teresa 1796 Ron Antigua de Solera
Along with Gin, Hains & Co is known for their fine selection of rums and Motteram describes this Venezualan drop as the white whale of rums. Recommended to him years ago, he was unable to find it for sale anywhere in Australia. What followed was years of rumours and red herrings until he eventually tracked down a supplier, tasted it for himself and it’s been behind the bar ever since.
Blended using the solera method over a period of many years, this one is best served in a glencairn whisky glass and drunk neat to really appreciate the rich flavours. Unlike some rums, it’s not overly sweet but has those distinctive caramel flavours and a beautiful amber colour. It’s perfect on its own, or paired with a cigar. Speaking of which…
Perdomo Habano Bourbon Barrel-Aged
One of the things that makes an evening spent at Hains special is the cigar selection. It’s the kind of thing you might not try at home but unwinding after a long day, sinking into a comfortable seat and watching the smoke waft up just feels right somehow.
The humidor contains a selection from across the Caribbean and even more so than the liquors, these are hand-crafted, individual beauties that are meant to be savoured. Motteram’s current pick is this Nicaraguan specialty that’s spent the last part of its ageing process in a bourbon barrel. That lends it some softer notes and it’s best enjoyed at length, over half an hour or even more.
Caol Ila Whisky 17yo Unpeated
This one’s so special that even the glass comes in its own sleeve, a handmade work of art that had to be specially ordered over from Melbourne. An Islay single malt scotch whisky, it comes out at cask strength (55.9%) and also spent a bit of time in ex-bourbon barrels.
At that strength it packs a punch,. and the first sip burns the palate a little before the flavour really comes out. It says unpeated on the bottle, but those smokey notes have seeped in from the equipment and the environment and this is one for the island whisky lovers.
Vermouth Del Professore
“When I was first opening, I employed an Italian bartender. He came in with a couple of bottles of vermouth and it was the first time I tried a white vermouth with this sweetness. But once we’d finished it, you couldn’t buy another bottle in Australia…”
If that sounds familiar, so should the part where Motteram spent years searching until he tracked down a supplier. It’s that level of dedication that makes Hains & Co so special and in this case, it was undoubtedly worth it.
Named for cocktail pioneer Jerry Thomas, Vermouth Del Professore is definitely sweet, a great introduction to the style with just a hint of wormwood at the end. It’s very, very easy to drink over ice, letting the rich flavour linger in the mouth and one simply isn’t enough. Lucky for us, Hains & Co will be offering bottle service for a selection of vermouths and amaros over Summer.
Note down this address note down this address – 23 Gilbert Place. That’s where Hains & Co is. It’s time you went to pay The Admiral a visit.
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