Maxwell James Mason is sitting reclined in his sofa speaking with Renew Adelaide’s Lilly Jacobs over the phone. The floorboards are bare, paint is drying on the walls, small piles of dust have been swept into the corners and the carpet is arriving later this week.
It’s hard to believe that as a Renew Adelaide project, the transformation of the dormant Chesser Cellars to the highly anticipated Henry Austin is on just a five week timeline. Just over two weeks in, the space is already showing signs of Mason and co-owner Tessa Footner’s grand vision.
A first look at the clean palatte of The Henry Austin
“We’re reviving South Australian history as we go,” he exclaims. “Each of these bars, with their beautiful stained wood and brass features was already here and has been so for years.” The pulley service system from the kitchen all the way to the basement is being tested for weight. “And you can put a lot on there,” Mason demonstrates, leaning his weight onto the top of the trays. “We’ll have a pass system downstairs for both hot and cold food, with plates readily available for people to come in and grab, along with a wine as a quick lunch. 20 minutes, in and out.”
The old bar will soon be revarnished and given some special trimming.
Head Chef Shane Wilson is upstairs, and proudly shows off his newly cleaned copper gas piping. “You couldn’t tell what it was made of earlier this week,” he laughs. The floors are covered in greasy water after another blast of cleaning product has revealed the condition of the gas cooktops as exceptional. Expected to cater to up to 180 seated diners and with their test run scheduled for the end of the month, The Henry Austin is a work in progress. But it’s perhaps this stage which has owner Mason most energised.
The entrance to the upstairs Hogarth Dining Room.
Upstairs, he shares with us the Hogath Dining Room, which will be the only room upstairs not to be utilised as office space. “In this room, the South Australia Constitution was signed and we will be playing against that with local produce, local artists and working with an especially wonderful local business for a sound system as well. The phenomenal quality of all things South Australian means we don’t need to look anywhere else.”
Cellar Boxes will be stocked in a few short weeks.
Downstairs the cellar space is something to behold. Each set of shelves will be taken on consignment by wineries from across the state, with the Primo Room, just offset from the main cellar a nod to previous owner’s passion for the building as well as the finest of their wine selections. Makers will be encouraged to do tastings in the cellar as their vintages evolve, ensuring the list remains up to date with the flavours showcased by the kitchen. Also downstairs, the HABar space offers a private setting, more casual than the Hogath upstairs.
The concept of Modern Australian Yum Cha that the Henry Austin is espousing is perhaps slightly misleading. Yum Cha is more of a referral to the style of service available for quick meal on the run, which is not to say that the more traditional meals won’t be prominent. Mason has booked in acting classes for his front of house staff in the lead up to the open, with the “Theatre Of Hospitality” as he calls is as crucial to the execution of service as the food and wine.
Furniture is being stockpiled, but final pieces are yet to be placed.
Piles of furniture are scattered at different spaces around the incomplete dining room currently. “Hipster bars aren’t exactly looking for these pieces right now, so Tess has been able to source quite a collection,” he laughs.
It seems wholly appropriate that such a renowned building in South Australia’s culinary history is set to house such a respectful revitalisation of the space, and a progressive food experience moving forward. With the proliferation of new venues over the last two years, we are beginning to see a gradual stagnation of sorts for the language we use to speak about our restaurants and bars. What was new, is now not quite so and the points of difference are the key to the evolution of our scene. The Henry Austin is promising a vast step forward, and perhaps a risky one considering their untested application of their modern menu. But innovation is not for the meek and Mason can frame the whirlwind project with hindsight drawn from his service history in the Royal British Navy.
“Nobody is likely to die in the making of this restaurant,” he laughs. “And we are finding everyone in Adelaide is watching our story. For example, our dog Shiz escaped on Sunday while we were renovating and was picked up wandering the streets. When I called the Council some hours later, they said they had recognised Shiz from our photos and had been driving her around Adelaide awaiting our call.”
“Adelaide is giving me the same feeling that Santa Barbara in California was 30 years ago. The quality of life here is just astonishing.”
Shiz provides us our tour of The Henry Austin.
The Henry Austin will offer preview sittings on Thursday the 26th May ($30), Friday the 27 ($50) and Saturday the 28th ($100). Secure your place via their Facebook page. Then it’s onto their full opening planned for early June.
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